I've heard people loathing Charminar a lot, with not much to see around it. But I've held rather contrary views, as not only the towers but also the people around it, the bustling marketplace, the vibrant mosque - comprise of the grandeur of this monument. What's better than visiting it when it is at its peak rush (3rd August). We had initially planned it for around 4am in the morning, as suhoor begins and capturing life and religion early morning would be a new experience for us. That we have led nocturnal lives for pretty much of our half-a-decade of existence in this city, couldn't stop us from planning at least. But when it came to implementation, it was as "perfect" as our resolves, that at the beginning of each semester used to be. So finally, it was in the evening (after playing the game) that we set out in our kurtas and pyjamas (chitta chaadra) and beard in somewhat-Muslim style. With jam-packed roads leading to the old city area and police and commandos guarding every nook and corner, it is all light show in the month of Ramazan that sets the region ablaze. But, wait, there's more to it. Not only Ramazan but also Hindu festivities continue with full vigour. We came across a procession with Hindu deities flowing past the well-lit congested roads and all the by-standers (even Muslims) watching eagerly. It was a part of Bonalu festival celebrations (learnt about it only the next day from newspaper), with constant rhythm of dholz enthralling the dancers that lead procession.
We parked our bike at a point where there was hardly any space and set out to explore the flashy shops, carts that have dozens of people particularly the burka-clad women. The surroundings reminded me of the hustle and bustle that covers the city back home during navratras and Diwali. Two narrow passages led to Charminar, with all types of flashy things to attract women. Some vendors even using mikes to announce their attractive and slashed offers to woo the passersby. Festivities are one of those moments that bring us closer, together. Pretending to be models, we were moving through those passages imagining them as the ramp. Just at the minar, we could see 2 men fist-fighting with each other (over a bag), another aspect of the large congregations we usually have - sort of a showstopper, after which normal pace resumes. Also, special commandos were to be seen moving around to maintain 'law and order' under control. It is the fear of communal clashes that brings them into the civilian areas, it's a pity. Bargaining is another interesting thing to be tried out there. Vendors start with too high a price, then their prices dip (as instantly as INR currency).
"Bhai, ye belt kitne ki?"
"Sir, 210"
"75 ki laga rahe ho?"
"Nahi sir, achi quality ki hai"
"Aage jayein kya?"
"Ok sir, 100 se kam nahi"
So that fall from 210 to 100 rupees was indeed drastic. Bargaining, that's what we are known worldwide for (Thanks to Russell Peters for that as well).
We relished Kahwa at one of the carts, checked out some scents available. From one of the carts, we could hear a young guy making announcements on mike, the way he made those were interesting. "Itar, itar, itar..ayiye ayiye, itar, itar, itar.." We tried capturing him in a video, only for him to be chided by his owner to concentrate on work and not on getting video-shot by us. We moved on, checking out a plethora of other items on display, there is this josh in atmosphere that tells you time and again, "life is indeed beautiful", and that we need to understand the ones around us in a better fashion, be more tolerant and forgiving.
Came back home late in the evening, leaving that vibrant and jubilant environs behind.
We parked our bike at a point where there was hardly any space and set out to explore the flashy shops, carts that have dozens of people particularly the burka-clad women. The surroundings reminded me of the hustle and bustle that covers the city back home during navratras and Diwali. Two narrow passages led to Charminar, with all types of flashy things to attract women. Some vendors even using mikes to announce their attractive and slashed offers to woo the passersby. Festivities are one of those moments that bring us closer, together. Pretending to be models, we were moving through those passages imagining them as the ramp. Just at the minar, we could see 2 men fist-fighting with each other (over a bag), another aspect of the large congregations we usually have - sort of a showstopper, after which normal pace resumes. Also, special commandos were to be seen moving around to maintain 'law and order' under control. It is the fear of communal clashes that brings them into the civilian areas, it's a pity. Bargaining is another interesting thing to be tried out there. Vendors start with too high a price, then their prices dip (as instantly as INR currency).
"Bhai, ye belt kitne ki?"
"Sir, 210"
"75 ki laga rahe ho?"
"Nahi sir, achi quality ki hai"
"Aage jayein kya?"
"Ok sir, 100 se kam nahi"
So that fall from 210 to 100 rupees was indeed drastic. Bargaining, that's what we are known worldwide for (Thanks to Russell Peters for that as well).
We relished Kahwa at one of the carts, checked out some scents available. From one of the carts, we could hear a young guy making announcements on mike, the way he made those were interesting. "Itar, itar, itar..ayiye ayiye, itar, itar, itar.." We tried capturing him in a video, only for him to be chided by his owner to concentrate on work and not on getting video-shot by us. We moved on, checking out a plethora of other items on display, there is this josh in atmosphere that tells you time and again, "life is indeed beautiful", and that we need to understand the ones around us in a better fashion, be more tolerant and forgiving.
Came back home late in the evening, leaving that vibrant and jubilant environs behind.